Chronomat

Chronomat

Purpose, Action, Style—The All-Purpose Sports-Chic Watch

77 Watches
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In the early 1980s, Breitling learned that the Italian Frecce Tricolori Jet team was on the hunt for a dedicated mechanical chronograph for its pilots. The team's ideal watch had to be sturdy enough for the cockpit, but sleek enough for off-duty wear. One of the prime occupational hazards facing jet pilots: their watch crystals often got damaged when they opened and closed the canopy of their aircraft. Breitling came up with a clever solution: recessing the crystal in the bezel and protecting it with four raised "rider tabs" at the 15-minute marks. The Frecce Tricolori was impressed with the design and commissioned the watches, that went on to become a hit, not just with the team, but amongst collectors. In 1984, Breitling launched the design publicly as the Chronomat. Its rider tabs, together with the easy-grip "onion" crown and durable metal “Rouleaux” bracelet, remain Chronomat signatures to this day.